[Sam Salvati]

Anyone got a picture of that fuller tool for fullering the shoulders for making the tang? Thanks.

[Geoff Keyes]

Are these what you're looking for?

I use this one for making a rounded, single fuller


This is the double fuller


This is a square head for setting the bottom of the ricasso


Geoff

[MDF]

Sam, I use this for my daggers, simple but effective.



CIAO

Marco

[Chris Meyer]

You can see mine sitting on top of my anvil. I purchased it from a gentleman on eBay. It works pretty well and you can make various dies for it. ABANA has plans to make a similar tool.

[Sam Salvati]

Thanks guys that is exactly what I am looking for!

[Karl B. Andersen]

Here's the link on Ebay and it's worth EVERY PENNY! I've been using mine almost daily for four years.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...oQQcmdZViewItem

[J. Helmes]

speaking of fullers are they always ground in or can you forge them in to. is there a good place to go for instruction on that sort of thing?

[B Finnigan]

I am getting ready to make a Ka-Bar clone for a guy and I have decided to mill it in. After a few attempts at trying to forge one I think the odds of success will be better with the mill. If I remember correctly Don has a few pics of one made from a special ground lathe chisel that is used to scrape a groove in. Right now time is not on my side to attempt that technique.

Ha!!! I found it!

Fullering tool

That is referred to as an idexable lathe bit and if you buy a carbide or cobalt alloy one a regular AO stone won't touch it when you go to grind it. Diamond wheels and zirconia/ceramic belts will work though. HSS bits can be ground (slowly) with and AO bench grinder stone.

This post has been edited by B Finnigan: 21 August 2007 - 08:30 PM

[MDF]

Mr. Finning, grover the blade is very simple. i use a section of file perfectly smooth that use with a tube (the handle). in this my old post there are some photos of this tool and the obtained result on a short sword.

Short sword

I'm constructing a new type of grip much comfortablee for this type of job, soon I insert some photo.

CIAO

Marco

[J. Helmes]

i looked at donns page there, but how do you keep that centered on a blade that tapers?

[Alan Longmire]

hawthrn, on Aug 22 2007, 06:35 PM, said:

i looked at donns page there, but how do you keep that centered on a blade that tapers?

Simple, it self-centers. Note the two guide pins equidistant from the cutter. In use, place the cutter gently on the blade where you want the fuller to begin, then twist the handle until both guide pins are riding the edges of the blade. Now scrape. As long as both guide pins are riding the edges, the cutter cannot be anywhere but exactly centered.

[Kerrystagmer]

Alan Longmire, on Aug 23 2007, 09:42 AM, said:

Simple, it self-centers. Note the two guide pins equidistant from the cutter. In use, place the cutter gently on the blade where you want the fuller to begin, then twist the handle until both guide pins are riding the edges of the blade. Now scrape. As long as both guide pins are riding the edges, the cutter cannot be anywhere but exactly centered.

Errrr unless I'm wrong that would ONLY be true if the bar has straight untapered sides..... on a formed blade it would not work. Typically this type of fuller cutter is used on cutlass and katana where only the back side is fullered

[Romey]

Here is my Guillotine Fuller ,I made various dies for various purposes.

[DFogg]

To cut a straight fuller on a leaf shaped blade or one without straight lines, clamp the blade to a bar and guide off it.

[Alan Longmire]

Kerrystagmer, on Sep 2 2007, 02:05 PM, said:

Errrr unless I'm wrong that would ONLY be true if the bar has straight untapered sides..... on a formed blade it would not work. Typically this type of fuller cutter is used on cutlass and katana where only the back side is fullered

Nope. Try it with a piece of wood, two dowels, and a pencil. The important part is that BOTH guide pins are riding the edges. This is for European-style straight tapered blades, a leaf may give you a wobble and for a curved blade I'd use only one guide pin as I did on the groovemaster 3000.

Of course, Don's suggestion of clamping the blade to a straight bar is the best suggestion, since the cutter won't change its angle as the blade tapers.

[Sam Salvati]

Nice guillotine tool Romey thank you for posting that one.

[Steve Sells]

I use this one for 1 inch and larger Diameter fullers. I welded a 7/8 inch dia bar of D2 to a 2.5 inch wide 5160 and added a short square bar to the bottom for a hardie hole.

When I broke it, I welded a plate of mild steel to the bottom as a splint, not pretty but still working.

This post has been edited by Steve Sells: 06 October 2007 - 06:39 PM