[Three Sisters Forge]

I have been messing with making folders for years. Most were crap. I decided this year to take the leap. I have had many requests for cable damascus in a folder. All efforts to get the cable down that thin were failures. Finally got it going. Forged, then ground to .185. Decided on titanium for the liners, bought all the toys to get this going. This is all my design, forging, heat treat, finish. I had help with waterjet cutting and grinding. Could not get flat to tolerances using my stuff. Sent out to a flat grinder, had Great lakes Waterjet cut the liners and blades.

Would anyone be interested in following this journey as I try to get this together? My be educational, maybe comical. I am far from knowing in this area, but learned much in the last 15 years trying to make one that works. I have only a drill press, so my work will be basic, but available to anyone. You CNC guys, no SNICKERING.

This is the collection. Cable damascus flat ground, bolsters will be of mosaic damascus cable, some Ironwood, and the bits and pieces. First step the pivot fit. The blade is of logging cable at .185, polished to 1000. Not etched.

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[matt venier]

I'm interested!! I'm not sure I'll make any but would like to see the progression.

Matt

[Wade Hougham]

Jim,
All of my education has been comical , let's do it. I have been asked by several people if I make folders and to this day have never even attempted one. You have been a great teacher on other tutorials I am sure this one will be no different. Wade

[atakach]

Good luck bro, this was my first attempt at a cable folder, real PITA, but thats probably because it's the first i ever actually completed.

Id be interested in seeing your creation come to life.


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Number of downloads: 22

[Art Lawrence]

I'd like to see it. -Art

[Bart Y.]

I would most definitely read.

[Jared Stier]

I have wondered about this for a very long time, please post your process!

[Three Sisters Forge]

Ok, here we go. Turn me off anytime. Let me know what works for ya all.

DESIGN: Many projects lack direction. Get a couple of folder kits, put them together, make careful notes of what goes well, what is a pain. Take the liners and blade, put them on a copier (Flat Plate type) and make some copies. Now make changes to what you want. Change curves, blades, screw holes. Leave it, then go back and refine the DETAILS. Look at screw sizes, head shape, lengths, width of blades.

Materials: I went with Ti & Cable damascus. Handles will vary.

Model: I took heavy paper museum board and made a knife, worked the angles, open-close, check distances. Just laid the copier paper on the museum board and traced out.

Drawings: Blade. All these aspects need to be located and sized
-Outline
-Edge location, false edge
-Ball Detent to lock in closed (1/16)
-Thumb Knob hole
-Lock face
-Pivot hole (3/16)



Drawing: Liners
-Outline
-Back Spacer location/ Spacer
-Lock outline
-Pivot size and plcement
-Lock Bar location
-Detent ball size and location.



Much thanks to Dave at Great Lakes Waterjet for guidance.

This post has been edited by Three Sisters Forge: 07 April 2009 - 09:55 AM

[Three Sisters Forge]

Blade Details

There are three holes:
-Detent ball bearing, less than 1/16 and the hole goes all the way through. This way I cam make a L or R handed blade.
-Pivot hole will be 3/16. Note drill and reamer. This has to be perfect.
-Thumb Stud hole for 2-56 threaded rod. I thread this hole, run the screw in, then the stud. This double locks down the stud.

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Liners
-Pivot hole-3/16.
-Stop rod & back spacer holes are 1/8. The spacers have shoulders that fit into this, held down with 2-56 screws. These are drilled and reamed.
-1/16 ball detent hole, ball is pressed in this, hole is just under 1/16.
-Bronze 3/16, ,30, .020 bushing.

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Confused yet ??

[Jared Stier]

Three Sisters Forge, on Apr 5 2009, 04:27 PM, said:

Confused yet ??

a lil

[Three Sisters Forge]

Jared Stier, on Apr 5 2009, 02:33 PM, said:

a lil

Jared my friend, let me know if I am leaving too much out. Happy to go back and clarify. This folder stuff is out there, so don't worry. May ruin my life, my wife is packing.

Wife: "It took you three hours to drill 4 holes ??"
Me: " Yep, and they are perfect !! "
Wife: "Dinner's in the oven, good luck."

[josh powell]

Don't forget to mask off the detent balls path during the etch, otherwise the folder will feel like it has gravel in it.

How did you cut the lock bar into the liner? I've been looking for a good way to do this for a while.

[Jared Stier]

I guess i just dont know what those two smaller holes are for above where the larger hole is. Is this going to be a locking blade?

[Three Sisters Forge]

Jared Stier, on Apr 5 2009, 03:21 PM, said:

I guess i just dont know what those two smaller holes are for above where the larger hole is. Is this going to be a locking blade?

The largest hole is for the pivot. The hole towards the spine is for the thumb stud and the lower smaller hole is the detent for the ball in the liner. There is a 1/16 ball that is pressed into the liner lock arm. This ball engages the blade "detent when closed to hold the blade in the liners.

I'll get some more pictures as I go. Better understanding? Here to help.

[Three Sisters Forge]

josh powell, on Apr 5 2009, 03:12 PM, said:

Don't forget to mask off the detent balls path during the etch, otherwise the folder will feel like it has gravel in it.

How did you cut the lock bar into the liner? I've been looking for a good way to do this for a while.

Good item to watch. I punch out electrical tape with a pipe to cover this. The liners were cut using waterjet.

[charred]

oh man oh man. thanks alot, I'm looking forward to this.

[Three Sisters Forge]

The parts must be FLAT and the holes must line up. If not, it will not move smoothly, it will bind and possibly result in a failed marriage or the dog recieving a beating.

I place the liners on sandpaper on a glass slab. Gently polish to remove burs and get flat. The liners are stacked one on top of the other. I drill the holes through both liners one at a time and ream out to 1/8". Placing a brass rod through BOTH of the liners. This holds them tight and keeps the holes alighned. Drill the next hole, place the rod in the next hole. Keep tight and then drill the last hole for the spacers. I only have a drill press and must take great care to keep flat and alighned. I use brass rods, soft enough to not mangle the holes, yet will fit tight. Drill the pilot hole, then ream to exact diamater. Perfect hole size and aligned perfectly

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[Three Sisters Forge]

Fitting the parts. We have flattened the parts, drilled and reamed the holes, now time ot pre-fit the entire folder. All of the parts should be size checked, fit and threads checked.

These are the liners and blade, bronze washers and there is a 2-56 tap through the thumb stud hole. The pivot is in place.

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This is the backside showing the screws in place.

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The folder is together, now make sure that it is even in the liners. Should be equal space, tight, blade swings freely.

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Thub stud and screw fit, not trimmed.

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It is VERY important that everything be fit perfect at this stage. If not all hell will break loose when you go fit the lock and stops.

Anyone still out there? Is this boring yet ?

[Jared Stier]

speaking for myself, i am following great now lol! Keep the pics coming, its always good to have walkthroughs for others to follow. Nice work

[Greg Thomas Obach]

looks good to me

its encouraging... i've never made a folder... alway wanted to...

nice tutorial